The Shrinking Space Between Band T-Shirt in addition to High Fashion

For decades right now, merchandise has been essential to the music business, a way for fans to deepen their connection to artists, in addition to for artists to extract more profits through their fans. This particular has taken many forms, through the parking-lot goodies at Grateful Dead shows to the extreme rock ’n’ roll logos of the 1980s to the bootleg hip-hop T-shirts inside the 1990s. Today, merchandise — sometimes made in partnership with actual fashion companies — can be as crucial to a musician’s rise as the music itself.

The past several years have been banner ones for merch. Kanye West revitalized of which as a space for experimentation, in addition to more recently, his merch aesthetic has been absorbed into high fashion, thanks largely to the work of the designer Demna Gvasalia at Vetements in addition to Balenciaga.

On This particular week’s Popcast:

  • Brian Procell, a historian in addition to dealer in addition to the proprietor of Procell, one of brand new York’s premier vintage clothing shops, discusses the history of music merch.

  • Emilia Petrarca, fashion news writer at The Cut, in addition to

  • Lawrence Schlossman, the brand director of Grailed, join for a conversation about the merging of merch in addition to high fashion.

Email your questions, thoughts in addition to ideas about what’s happening in pop music to popcast@nytimes.com.